Andalusia, or AL-Andalus, is the southernmost region of Spain, home to prominent cities such as Granada, Cadiz, Cordoba, Malaga and Sevilla. It was occupied by the Moors for over 800 years until 1492, when the king of the Moors finally capitulated and surrendered the region to the Catholic Monarchs King Fernando and Queen Isabel of Spain. It had been described to us by a friend as ‘winding streets, courtyards, and fountains.’ Some of the streets were so small and windy that only one person or a scooter could fit in it at one time. The hostel we stayed at was on a little street like this. By day, a sleepy little street, by night, a raging block party as people spilled out of multiple bars and cafes. The streets also had a number of clothing shops selling flamenco-style skirts.
I should add that I took this opportunity to drink as much sangria as possible- you know, strictly for research purposes :-) The standard sangria was red wine, triple sec, ice, orange juice, oranges, and lemons. Some places added peaches and mangoes-tasty!
Another one of Sevilla’s attractions is its bullfighting. Though, by the time we got there, the season was winding down..
Our hostel was great- for the first time, we stayed in a place that had rooms facing a central common area. We met some Aussies who had been throughout Spain and shared some great travel stories.
One of the tips we got from the Aussies was to check out flamenco in Sevilla. We got tickets to see the show and made our way to a central courtyard, covered by a tented roof and surrounded by the scent of jasmine. The flamenco dancer was fantastic- she was calm, cool, and collected and never missed a beat. I had actually taken two flamenco classes back in UC Davis and was reminded of the footwork drills we had to learn-which was why I only took two classes! She was accompanied by a guitarist and a singer who kept time by clapping. Her voice was throaty and almost harsh sounding-reminded me of some of the songs I have heard from the desert in India-Ila Arun, for example.
Sevilla’s cathedral is the third largest in the world and is a mix of Moorish and Gothic influences. It was built in the 15th century on the site of a mosque that was demolished, in order to make way for this monument to Christian glory. Columbus’ remains (supposedly) are kept in the cathedral, in a sarcophagus supported on the shoulders of four statues representing the grateful kingdoms of Spain. 
You can also climb up the tower, la Giralda, which was where the muezzin would call the faithful to prayer, when it was a mosque. Apparently, he used to make the trip up on horseback!
As we walked around the cathedral, we came upon several wedding parties. The clothes were fantastic- colourful dresses, lace mantillas, and fans in abundance. Just like in Moscow, we saw multiple wedding parties location hopping for pictures as well as the drivers kicking back and downing beer while waiting for their next group!
The Alcazar is right around the corner from the cathedral- and is still used today as a royal residence for the King and Queen. Built in the 14th century, it has amazing examples of tilework, intricately carved ceilings, mosaics, and frescoes- much of what is also found in the Alhambra. We spent a lovely afternoon walking around and enjoying the serene gardens.
- Smruti
hey guys,
i've been reading your blog every now and then. so jealous that you are in seville! harsha and i honeymooned there and just LOVED it.
safe and happy travels
see you in india in december
lulu
Posted by: Lulu | Tuesday, October 12, 2004 at 02:31 PM
Dev and Smruti: Thanks for the Seville writeup. Brings back memories of our trip in 2000. Granada is beautiful and a must see if you have the time.
Posted by: Ratnesh | Tuesday, October 12, 2004 at 06:29 AM